Workshop

The best way I have found to remove veneer tape is the wet-and-peel method. I use a sponge top bottle to wet the tape and a finger to spread and keep the tape evenly wet. Since its important that the edges of the tape are as wet as the rest of the tape, getting a bit of water on the veneer is inevitable. It will take 2-3 minutes for the moisture to soak through to the glue. Use a minimal amount of water and take the tape off as soon as you can.

Getting the peel started can be a bit tricky. While not always convenient, leaving the tape long can make it easy - so long as glue squeeze doesn't get stuck to it. A utility knife blade will help get the peel started as well as keeping it going when the tape wants to tear. I use 10mm dowel as a blade holder. The trick with a holder is to get the blade at an angle that cuts high spots without digging in.

I also use a utility knife blade (too lazy to sharpen my cabinet scraper) to scrape the surface once the tape is removed - there's usually a bit of residue near where the edge of the tape was (the holder can be useful here as well - less likely to push any residue into the grain).

The veneer under the tape will stay dry unless you use a lot of water and let it sit on the tape too long (not a good idea). A heat gun or hair drier will quickly dry the veneer.

YouTube video: Removing Wood Veneer Tape
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I use a custom notched spreader to apply glue for all veneer press layups. Trying to do it freehand is doable, but guides make it a lot easier. The guides keep the glue from going over the edges and hold the panel in place. The guides should be 1/8" or more thicker than the panel being glued. Having the far guide be at least as wide as the veneer allows for taping the veneer to the guide(s, image) and folding it back onto the guide - lined up and ready to set in the glue. The far guide is the same length as the workbench so that it is easy to clamp in place. The close guide only needs to be as long as the panel being glued. I use spring clamps clamped so that they push the close guide tight to the panel.

Since the easiest place not to get enough glue is along the edges I pour a heavy bead near the edges and run the spreader along the edges first. I angle the spreader as needed to keep enough glue along the edge - not so much that it climbs over the guide. The goal when spreading is to get an even spread with no high beads from glue running around the side of the spreader. I figure its OK to be picky and take a bit of time to allow a bit of glue/moisture to soak into the MDF. Ultimate glue line thickness will depend on the angle of the spreader, how much glue you push with it (little to none equals thinner glue line), and how clean of glue the flats between the glue lines are. It is a good idea to test each veneer you will be using as some will need more glue than others.

YouTube video: Gluing Wood Veneer w/ notched spreader
See also: Tools : Glue Spreader
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While veneer tape is the best way to get a good tight seam it takes a lot of time - tape the seam tight on the back side, apply veneer tape to the front side, remove the tape from the back side, press and then remove the veneer tape.

It is possible to get a good seam by just taping the face of the veneer using 3M's Delicate Surfaces tape. The tapes low adhesion means that it needs to be pressure rolled when pulling the seam tight or the tape won't stay stuck to the veneer. The advantage is that the press won't stick it any more and you'll be able to remove it without any grain tearing.

I use 1/2" tape and a 9/16" wide custom roller. A 3/4-1" wide roller would probably be best, mine is prone to tipping. Joe's 2" seaming roller might be too wide to provide the needed pressure. Running a lengthwise strip isn't necessary if you run enough cross pieces (a cut to length tape dispenser is handy for this).
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Common tapes used in veneering are masking tape and veneer tape. For temporary holding/locating pieces 3M's Multi-Surfaces #2090 blue painters tape is typically the tape of choice. 3M's General Purpose #2020 tape has a bit stronger adhesion and I have yet to have a problem (e.g. grain tear) with it. Neither tape is good for use on veneer in a vacuum press because they will become hard to remove and may cause grain tear.

The best masking tape for use on veneer that will be put in a vacuum press is 3M's Delicate Surfaces #2080 blue tape. This tape has low adhesion, but can leave a bit of residue. Any residue can be removed with tape or a sanding belt/disk cleaning stick (haven't tried erasers or drawing cleaner pads). This tape can be used for seaming if pressure rolled to create an adequate bond.

Another PSA tape used for seaming is Joe's Quick Stitch tape. While some folks like this, I am not a fan. This tape has very strong adhesion and is quite thick. Even with a heat gun to soften the adhesive, I got grain tear trying to remove this from VG Fir veneer. This tape (.004") is twice as thick as veneer tape and 3M's 2080 (both .002"). I use 1/4" raw MDF cauls and this tape leaves a noticeable depression in the veneer (even .002 tape leaves a slight depression). This tape doesn't help to create a tight seam either, veneer tape shrinks when it dries and 2080 has a bit a of stretch - both can pull/hold seams tight.

My preference is 3/4" no-hole veneer tape. While some folks prefer holes so that they can see the seam (a good seam is hard to see and this didn't work well for me), no-hole tape is the only way I would try the wet-and-peel method of veneer tape removal. I put bits of 3/4" blue tape centered off the ends of the seam for locating the veneer tape. On long seams I place a couple of short pieces in the center ~1/2" from the seam and center the veneer tape in the gap.

40 gram veneer tape	.002"
3M #2080	.002"
3M crepe tapes (#2090, #2020)	.003"
Quick Stitch	.004"

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