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I took a closer look at this jig after noticing the strange 5mm drill bit. It turns out that the only difference between the KMA3220 (5mm) and KMA3200 (1/4") jigs is the drill bit. The jig body has 1/4" drill bushings and drilling 5mm holes requires a special 1/4" drill bit that steps down to 5mm at the tip (as does the locating pin). While that is a bad start, there is also no 37mm edge fence. The "adjustable fence" locates the holes 1" or 2-1/8" from the front edge. One edge of the jig has to be manually lined up with the front edge to drill holes 37mm from the front edge (the other edge is 66.1mm). The bottom line is that this is totally worthless for 32mm cabinetmaking.
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Commercial Drill Jigs
There are a number of drill jigs you can buy or make. There is a lot of variety and some will be better suited to drilling construction and/or system holes than others.
Veritas 32
By:Ken Kubiak
I use the 32mm system jigs from Veritas, and a hand drill. Tedious, but accurate, and inexpensive. It does a good job of end boring, too. Also, I find that I can be very selective about which holes I drill, since I'm drilling each one separately. On bookcases, for example, I stop drilling about 6 inches from the bottom and top.
The Veritas system is a set of 3 aluminum tracks, with indexing holes every 32mm. Then you've got a bushing carrier that slides along the tracks and indexes in the holes. A set of rods allows you to connect the 3 tracks in a square U, and square them to your reference edge(s). You can drill two columns and one row in each setup. I design balanced panels, but I don't rely on them being balanced; both tracks are positioned relative to the reference edge.
For edge boring, it's like a long doweling jig -- you mount one of the tracks on two clamps that center it on the board, and a stop at the end positions the track relative to the reference edge. With this setup, it's easy to drill several holes -- for a 2' deep cabinet, I use 6 dowels per edge.
It's sold through Lee Valley Tools ( 800-267-8767).
Online information about the Veritas system:
The catalog entry.
The instruction manual (pdf).
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I use the 32mm system jigs from Veritas, and a hand drill. Tedious, but accurate, and inexpensive. It does a good job of end boring, too. Also, I find that I can be very selective about which holes I drill, since I'm drilling each one separately. On bookcases, for example, I stop drilling about 6 inches from the bottom and top.
The Veritas system is a set of 3 aluminum tracks, with indexing holes every 32mm. Then you've got a bushing carrier that slides along the tracks and indexes in the holes. A set of rods allows you to connect the 3 tracks in a square U, and square them to your reference edge(s). You can drill two columns and one row in each setup. I design balanced panels, but I don't rely on them being balanced; both tracks are positioned relative to the reference edge.
For edge boring, it's like a long doweling jig -- you mount one of the tracks on two clamps that center it on the board, and a stop at the end positions the track relative to the reference edge. With this setup, it's easy to drill several holes -- for a 2' deep cabinet, I use 6 dowels per edge.
It's sold through Lee Valley Tools ( 800-267-8767).
Online information about the Veritas system:
The catalog entry.
The instruction manual (pdf).
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J & R Enterprises
By: Tim Hoyman
I am very satisfied with it. The nicest thing about the setup is the ball bearing drilling bit that comes with it. The only problem I have is that the bit does not clear itself out well, so it is not always easy to get the chips out of the holes and the bit does not always slide freely in the sleeve. But, overall it works well and is very accurate.
It is a very nice jig, but has some limitations. For instance, the shortest panel that can be used with it is 29". If it is any shorter, one end of the jig will not catch and align itself. Then there is the time it takes to drill the holes.
Mine was $140 COD. They did not accept credit cards or P.O.s when I bought mine in Jan of this year. I think it is just a guy and his wife. He came up with the design and has a machine shop make them up.
J & R Enterprises, Inc.
4848 East Cactus Road #505-431
Scottsdale, AZ 85254.
V (602) 953-0178
F (602) 996-2348
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I am very satisfied with it. The nicest thing about the setup is the ball bearing drilling bit that comes with it. The only problem I have is that the bit does not clear itself out well, so it is not always easy to get the chips out of the holes and the bit does not always slide freely in the sleeve. But, overall it works well and is very accurate.
It is a very nice jig, but has some limitations. For instance, the shortest panel that can be used with it is 29". If it is any shorter, one end of the jig will not catch and align itself. Then there is the time it takes to drill the holes.
Mine was $140 COD. They did not accept credit cards or P.O.s when I bought mine in Jan of this year. I think it is just a guy and his wife. He came up with the design and has a machine shop make them up.
J & R Enterprises, Inc.
4848 East Cactus Road #505-431
Scottsdale, AZ 85254.
V (602) 953-0178
F (602) 996-2348
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Align-Rite
By: Dave Lers
I started out with this jig and it is still handy to have around. It is basically a bar with a series of 5mm drill bushings and a couple of stops to space the bar from edge and end. The edge stops can easily be set to 37mm (with tubes that slide over the rods coming out the side of the bar) or any spacing you want. The rods are pressure fit into the bar which cause a very slight bow. While this is undesirable it can be lived with. I was able to do a lot of different operations with this jig.
The reason it is still handy is that I can put a hole anywhere in the 32mm grid once I have drilled my system holes with the Delta. Base cabinets require (at least) 3 connectors to attach the bottom, one is midway between the front and back system holes. I put the 5mm locating pins through the bar into the system holes and drill the extra hole.
Align-Rite page
Amazon page
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I started out with this jig and it is still handy to have around. It is basically a bar with a series of 5mm drill bushings and a couple of stops to space the bar from edge and end. The edge stops can easily be set to 37mm (with tubes that slide over the rods coming out the side of the bar) or any spacing you want. The rods are pressure fit into the bar which cause a very slight bow. While this is undesirable it can be lived with. I was able to do a lot of different operations with this jig.
The reason it is still handy is that I can put a hole anywhere in the 32mm grid once I have drilled my system holes with the Delta. Base cabinets require (at least) 3 connectors to attach the bottom, one is midway between the front and back system holes. I put the 5mm locating pins through the bar into the system holes and drill the extra hole.
Align-Rite page
Amazon page
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Kreg KMA3220
I took a closer look at this jig after noticing the strange 5mm drill bit. It turns out that the only difference between the KMA3220 (5mm) and KMA3200 (1/4") jigs is the drill bit. The jig body has 1/4" drill bushings and drilling 5mm holes requires a special 1/4" drill bit that steps down to 5mm at the tip (as does the locating pin). While that is a bad start, there is also no 37mm edge fence. The "adjustable fence" locates the holes 1" or 2-1/8" from the front edge. One edge of the jig has to be manually lined up with the front edge to drill holes 37mm from the front edge (the other edge is 66.1mm). The bottom line is that this is totally worthless for 32mm cabinetmaking.
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Woodhaven 786 Kurka Jig
Posted by Dave R on Thursday, 22-Aug-2013
Please Google the "Kurka Jig Manual" online, and see just how easy and precise the 32mm system can be. Its easy to read, and has clear, easily understandable charts. Saves a lot of work, time and headache. Use it for frame-less and face frame, overlay, inset and even 3/8" inset cabinets. I know this will help.
I use the jig, and it has made all the difference in the world, by saving time, perfecting fit and finish, perfecting accuracy, and just making production a really pleasurable experience. 99% of the calculating is already done for you.
Already have a line boring machine, the free downloadable manual helps you set up your line borer to complement the manual instructions. Either way, you will see the beauty of this metric based system. Much higher production, profits and far less frustration, than with the old fashioned, traditional 'reinvent the wheel every time you build a cabinet' American system of cabinetmaking.
Good Luck
Dave R.
Editors Note: While they use n x 32mm box heights, the manual does NOT describe a 32mm system. Since it appears that their start holes are 48mm, the ONLY 32mm system cabinets this jig can make are FO Stackable Boxes with 1.5mm top and bottom reveals (not a recommended option) and shifted registration.
While five drawer base cabinets are nice, the only way to do it with the 32mm system is to use panel heights divisible by 5, e.g. 800mm (VS 768). The problem is, at least for 36" tall cabinets, that the toe kick is reduced to ~3" (VS 4-1/4")... It's really too bad that we're not working w/ 31mm increments - 38 (1.5") + 775 (25 x 31mm / 30.5") + 101 (4") = 914 (36").
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Please Google the "Kurka Jig Manual" online, and see just how easy and precise the 32mm system can be. Its easy to read, and has clear, easily understandable charts. Saves a lot of work, time and headache. Use it for frame-less and face frame, overlay, inset and even 3/8" inset cabinets. I know this will help.
I use the jig, and it has made all the difference in the world, by saving time, perfecting fit and finish, perfecting accuracy, and just making production a really pleasurable experience. 99% of the calculating is already done for you.
Already have a line boring machine, the free downloadable manual helps you set up your line borer to complement the manual instructions. Either way, you will see the beauty of this metric based system. Much higher production, profits and far less frustration, than with the old fashioned, traditional 'reinvent the wheel every time you build a cabinet' American system of cabinetmaking.
Good Luck
Dave R.
Editors Note: While they use n x 32mm box heights, the manual does NOT describe a 32mm system. Since it appears that their start holes are 48mm, the ONLY 32mm system cabinets this jig can make are FO Stackable Boxes with 1.5mm top and bottom reveals (not a recommended option) and shifted registration.
While five drawer base cabinets are nice, the only way to do it with the 32mm system is to use panel heights divisible by 5, e.g. 800mm (VS 768). The problem is, at least for 36" tall cabinets, that the toe kick is reduced to ~3" (VS 4-1/4")... It's really too bad that we're not working w/ 31mm increments - 38 (1.5") + 775 (25 x 31mm / 30.5") + 101 (4") = 914 (36").
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Comments [ new ]
- Re: Manual Drill Jigs
- Posted by Rhonda Manley on Wednesday, 17-Sep-2008
J+R Enterprises, Inc. has a new address but the same phone number. Their address is 4848 East Cactus Road Suite #505-431 Scottsdale, AZ 85254. Phone contact is 602-953-0178, Fax-996-2348. Email is jandrdrilljig@cox.net. Internet address is jandrdrilljig.com.
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